Tuesday, April 28, 2009

St. Thomas ( Keller) According to Bourdain

I ate at the French Laundry, once. I would love to go more, a pilgrimage of sorts, but this economy is putting a damper on even my most humble dining out plans. And that will have to be okay for now. Yet, I do have the blessing of my memory and my recent encounter with Chef Thomas Keller or St. Thomas, as Anthony Bourdian so aptly named him. I am a huge sucker for celebrity chefs, or most chefs that is. That is why I do this. I really understand what it takes to work in this business and I can only be in awe of those that do it and become famous or create something sublime, or both. (This will be a recurring theme, people.) But back to T.K.

My goal for the Pebble Beach trek, was to see, meet or possibly, just possibly assist Chef Keller. Only Bourdain has the words to properly describe him, the level of his food and his vision. I will spare you my attempts and encourage you to read "A Cooks Tour". Suffice it to say, he has changed the game forever with his gorgeous, thoughtful food with an unprecedented reverence for the best, most incredible ingredients. He is playful and evocative in his menus and concepts, with out ever being trite. The meal we ate was beyond my wildest food visions. Read about Chef Keller, it is wondrous.

He was on deck first at Pebble Beach on Friday and came really early to set up. In true TK style, he had everything ready to go and brought tons of cookware, All Clad Stainless of course. He does not leave anything to chance. He had four or five guys with him, fairly young, some mid 20's, some mid 30's. My favorite was a fairly young gun named Mark Bodinet. In any group of celebs and their entourgaes, I have noticed that there is usually one or two people who will really notice who is helping, working and making it all flow. The gratiude guys. Love those guys. That was Mark and Thomas Keller himself.


After his set up, I asked Chef for a photo which he SO graciously and very willingly agreed to. He even walked over, stepped down and since he is super tall and I am super short, he sat down and so kindly set his hand ever so gently on my knee and leaned in. You can see the benevolent look on his face, it tells his whole story. He posed with my culinary companion, Elizabeth as well. He is just so cool.

As I mentioned before, Chef Todd English was a last minute canceling no - show so Thomas had an even bigger crowd. Finally everyone was seated and chef began to introduce his dishes and to tell a wonderful story.
Next post: Chef Keller and Nona & Gnocchi Two Ways

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

French Connection- Jacques Pepin and me!




Coming soon, delicious details from Chef Thomas Keller's absolutely fantastic demonstration and food photos. Also, my best, coolest, most soulful chef connection of the whole Pebble Beach Experience coming up. But first, my Jacques moment.

International culinary legend
Jacques Pepin himself, what a guy, was scheduled to present on the demonstration stage on Saturday at 3:30 at the Pebble Beach Food and Wine Experience . I suppose it was fortunate that Todd English punked out because the cook top in the first demo tent cracked, badly. The KILLER production team was on it, they called a local appliance provider who, some how, got a new cook top on site fast. They dismantled the broken one and installed a new one in record time. No one noticed, but I bet they were really stressing. They were ready in plenty of time for Jacques and Claudine.

We cleaned up and re-set the stages after Keller's fabulous demonstration. How fun to turn around and come face to face with Jacques sipping a glass of champagne in our prep tent! "Oh, hello chef, it is an honor!" I stammered. He and his daughter Claudine Pepin arrived to inspect the set up and gather the remaining ingredients for the "mis en place". Despite excellent preparation and coordination by the PB staff, we ran back and forth getting item after item. As much as I tried to gather the list all at once, new things kept coming up. Platters, plates, no smaller plates, more olives, more water. It was really funny. The main kitchen was, incidentally, far away! Brenn Gambon from the PB staff was a rock star, you name it, he got it, FAST. By the second day I was joking "Brenn, can you get me a box of happy kittens, a bag of pine needles and an eggplant?" I had to tell him I was kidding, because he would gave found those items.

Meanwhile, Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto was setting up in the other tent. He had a HUGE monkfish, the most remarkably ugly fish in the world, and he was hoisting it up on a couple of hooks! Yikes, meanwhile I was running back and forth to see what Jacques needed. Finally, I committed to Jacques, he had a large amount of prep, most of it done. He and Claudine did six total dishes! He featured tomato dishes, which was weird, since it is not even close to tomato season. Hey, he is rich, famous and a great chef, he can do what he wants. The tomatoes actually looked pretty nice. I was working with a VERY young culinary student of the California persuasion: in other words not used to a forceful, bossy chef. Poor kid, Jacques has that crazy thick accent, he mumbles and he is a bit impatient. He had the kid pitting olives with the side of a sharp knife, his hands and board were all greasy. I was envisioning a bloody mess. I came in to assist, kid's gotta toughen up. I love California more than anything, but most kitchens are soft. I wonder how many CA culinary students intern back east and get a shock when they are introduced to an east-coast-chef run kitchen! Or, worse a FRENCH chef!

Yet, Chef was very gracious and super professional, come on he and Julia invented this stuff! The first dish was Spaghetti with Fresh Tomato and Anchovy Sauce, simple and lovely. He and Claudine joked and bickered back and forth to the delight of the huge audience. They then busted out a Tall Greek Tomato Salad (second plate from front), essentially a horizontally cut tomato with Greek Salad ingredients stacked inside. Great presentation. He peeled and stuffed a tomato with a rice mixture ( 5th plate) and then showed a Caprese salad done in a tomato cut horizontally, not all the way through, fitted with wedges of buffalo mozzarella and basil (4th plate). Claudine made a great tartare dish with a disk of a new product of theirs by California Caviar, Pressed Caviar. It is a paste of caviar that can be flattened and sliced, frozen and shaved or molded into rounds or discs. She topped her dish with a flat disc of caviar, paper thin, shiny and jet black ( 3rd plate). Excellent idea.

The crowd adored them, but Jacques was really pissed for a bit because his cook books did not arrive for the post demo book signing. During his demo, one of the young co-founders of this event, David Alan Bernahl II, announced that they would buy and ship Jacques' cook book for each attendee! It was an Oprah moment, for sure. Now that is CUSTOMER SERVICE! Jacques was very pleased. I was really impressed at the gorgeous food and all the time he spent with the guests : photos, fawning, answering the same questions over and over. He is a treasure. After the demo, he headed off to get ready for the Cristal Champagne Dinner featuring chefs Eric Ripert of Le Bernadin, Sylvain Portay of Groupe Alain Ducasse, Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison Park and many other greats. Me, I was figuring out how to dispose of the hulking corpse and innards of the eviscerated monkfish and accompanying nasty fish water that the fish was iced in from Chef Morimoto's Monkfish Hot Pot demonstration. Oh, the glamour...
Degrees of separation, 5. Great man, legend, French, off to sip more well deserved champagne.

Keep posted for the upcoming details about Chef Keller's presentation and great, heartwarming true stories from a new favorite chef and friend, Chicago's Rick Tramonto.

Monday, April 20, 2009

Chef - travaganza! Pebble Beach rocked!





4 days, 60 chefs, 250 wineries: I left Thursday night for my latest chef quest, the Second Annual Pebble Beach Food and Wine Experience in Monterey, CA. My beloved colleague Elizabeth Bourget from Gourmet to Go Personal Chef Service put me up at her home in Scotts Valley and we were out the door by 6:15 am on Friday to seek out the Inn at Spanish Bay. We missed the entrance and drove over 10 miles of the world's most gorgeous coastline. Wow. The homes, the quality of the light, colors and sounds filled our eyes and ears. But the sights I really wanted were some of the worlds top chefs, so we turned around once we figured out our mistake. We arrived at our location, finding our gracious leader, Helene Crees and the games began.

This 4 day event took place in several locations all over the property and beyond and included private $2000 a person dinners, a Crystal Champagne dinner by Chef Eric Ripert and events ranging from $100 a la carte events to a $12, 400 VIP Package. Me, I worked side by side with my heroes, the best seat in the house!

After delicious coffee and snacks in the swanky volunteer lounge we headed to the Jenn- Air Demonstration tent. The reception area had Illy Cafe Coffee and a beautiful book store and sales area. An automated wine koisk was set up with two huge heated tents back to back with two full demonstration kitchens outfitted by Jenn- Air and Kitchen Aid. Our prep tent was in between and it was there that I met the fun and super cool team of Chef Ted Consoli , Brenn Gambon, Cruz Esparza and Nancy Lauk. I have never met a better team, truly. Every single staff person from PB was excellent. Even the Food and Beverage Manager, Pascal Rifflart , who must have had a ridiculously huge job that weekend was gracious, present and fun. Think of it, this is a four day extravaganza with huge chef dinners, galas, fully booked rooms, chef demonstrations and so on. Huge. He took the team photo of all of us! Quite a wonderful person.

First up was Chef Thomas Keller of the already legendary French Laundry in Yountville, CA. He was the holy grail of the weekend as far as I was concerned. All I hoped was to see him cook and wash even a dish he had dirtied. I got to experience so much more than that!

But first, the dirt, Chef Todd English was a no show! Can you imagine, thousands of dollars of press, PR , printed book size programs, 10 foot tall posters, guests expecting you etc. , etc. NO SHOW! We had to move his guests seats in to Keller's tent. Maybe he heard who he was up against and chickened out. The chefs demos were scheduled back to back, English and Keller at 10am. It was a win for all , who would not want to see Keller? Really, now.

My king arrived in his famous, prepared, calm, cool style. He is tall and so incredibly present. He is considered easily one of the top five chefs in the world, even by the French, and yet he is gentle and fun. He had prepared all of his "Miz"( chef talk for cut and organized food ingredients for cooking) and brought all of his own tools, All Clad cookware by the box full. He had several assistants, my favorite was Mark Bodinet. They helped, but chef took care of his full set up. Such a pro. I had a blast getting him water, towels, chopping parsley for him. I am serious, it was an honor. Chef was more than happy to pose for pictures and he willingly came over, sat down and gently set his hand on my knee in such a kind way. He has that thing that I heard Bill Clinton has where he can look you in the eye and you feel like you are the only person in the world. Wow. Do not get me wrong, I do not covet Laura's man, I truly am enamored by the food, the process, the impact he has made forever on the food industry. But, I do swoon when he is near.
Degrees of separation 3 out if 6, his legendary status was tempered by his decidedly un-snobby demeanor.


Guests swarmed in, late of course, California time. Chef had no where else in the world he had to be. Neither did I , neither did I... And then he began.

Next up, chef Keller's demo and photos, Jacques Pepin, Rick Tramonto and much, much more!

Monday, April 13, 2009

Cooking my way through Northern California
















Our first cooking class, Farmer's Market Salads for Spring at the gorgeous new Fresh Starts Cooking School was excellent, thanks to the whole team. Sue Weiss, you sure make nutrition fun. Guests loved it and we really did have a ball. My student assistant Jessie Jones, from our on site job training program had me smiling when he said "I almost threw those oranges away, I thought they were spoiled!" in reference to Rosa De Santis' fabulous blood oranges from the Marin Farmer's Market. The flesh is almost black, so I can understand! Can you see why I get such a kick out of my work?


Our Nicoise Salad was a huge hit, starring the most ridiculously incredible greens from the Triple T Ranch and Anna Svidese's (pictured above, age 17) "Smoasted" (Smoke- Roasted) Salmon from Santa Rosa Seafood. Meyer lemon and lemon thyme vin. Outrageous. More on Anna in future posts...She is a seafood star.


This week I am up to my old, yet yummy tricks: our free, fun , fabulous cooking events at Standards of Excellence Appliance Showrooms. Tuesday I am in Concord, Wednesday we are in Rohnert Park. Be SURE to sign up in advance. Next Tuesday April 21st, we are in our hometown of San Rafael, call 415-453-6070 to sign up.

Thursday April 16th, I head down to Scott's Valley to visit my beloved colleague Elizabeth Bourget of Gourmet to Go. I am hijacking her to come on a crazy trip to Monterey. We are working at the Pebble Beach Food and Wine Experience, 4 days, 60 Celebrity Chefs, 250 acclaimed wineries...I can not wait to report back. Follow me on Twitter for the name dropping and elbow rubbing! Jacques Pepin, Todd English and dare I even think it...maybe a sighting of Thomas Keller?! No, no. Too much to hope for. Much too much. Sigh.

Monday, April 20th we are back in Novato at our stellar home base for a cooking class with Joyce Jue. Joyce is truly on of the Bay Area's most fabulous cooking teachers, cook book author and she is OURS on Monday. But we will share! Sign up for our " Thai Curries Class" and learn to make the best Thai food at home. I am so excited to work with her again. Class is from 6:30-8:30pm and includes a delicious meal , all for just $49! Yes! Sign up on www.hbofm.org and click on "Take a cooking class" , go to the schedule and click on the date.
Fresh Starts Cooking School 1385 N. Hamilton Parkway, Novato, CA. 415-382-3363 Ext. 213 Free parking right outside. See photo above.


Next month look for Chef Eric Gower, the Breakway Cook with a gift making and cooking class with his superb flavored salts on May 4th and a fantastic Mother's Day Brunch and Chocolate Showcase on May 10th . I am teaching another Farmer's Market Class on May 18th, stay tuned!

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Begin at the beginning, or New Beginnings


by Chef Rachelle Boucher

In early 2000, I saw a CBS segment about Elizabeth Murray, a homeless teen from the streets of NYC who ended up going to Harvard. I remembered some fairly hard times of my youth after my parents' divorce when it was hard to get by. I was so moved that I called the local homeless service provider, Homeward Bound of Marin, the next morning asking if they had any need for a fun, friendly hard working chef like me. They did.

As a culinary teacher and volunteer at the New Beginnings Center (NBC) since 2000, I have been able to help many residents begin their transition out of homelessness through the NBC's ground breaking culinary job training program, Fresh Starts Academy, run by my mentor, Chef Carol Menard. At that time, I was also the exclusive private chef for George Lucas and his family. I had many days working in the NBC transitional program in the morning and cooking for world famous people at night. It was easy for me to transition - food is my conduit. Hence the name: Degrees of Separation, Notes from a Chef, a reference to the incredible culinary connections and adventures I have in my life.

Fast forward to 2008, a tough year for so many, but a promising year for our program, with the opening of the incredible state of the art Next Key Center. This visionary center now houses the Fresh Starts Academy, catering and now, drum roll please, ...the Fresh Starts Cooking School! I am honored to be the new Cooking School Coordinator and to begin classes this month for the public featuring top teachers, chefs and cook book authors and of course, the best products from the Marin Farmers Market and our own on site garden!

All those years of teaching, volunteering, mentoring, chef wrangling (much more on that later!), cooking, promoting and yes, thousands of hours of dish washing, are coming in handy the new center. Food writer Leslie Harlib asked me today in an interview, "What makes your school different? Special?" Easy. Our vision of community, to be able to grow the first culinary community encompassing top culinary talent, Academy students, residents bettering their lives and our neighbors, united by food in a top notch facility. Join us as we all make magic together.
Tomorrow, I head to the Marin Farmers Market for produce for a private class on Saturday and to preview my choices for my premier class on Monday, April 6th from 6:30PM - 8:30PM with health educator Sue Weiss. Join us for "Farmers Market Salads for Spring" starring a killer Nicoise Salad with "Smoasted", (yes "Smoasted") Salmon, Jeweled Mixed Grain and Herb Salad and Spinach and Berry Salad with Parmesan Crisps". A two hour class and full meal for a fabulous introductory price of $49!

Check out our full lineup of fabulous chefs including cook book authors Eric Gower, the Breakaway Cook and Joyce Jue, Asian cuisine and travel expert.

We've only just begun... (sing it!)