I have to admit, I love "best and worst" lists, top 10's and the like. Yes, I know the making of these lists is often so political, always reductionist and oh so very subjective. As I am yet to be an honoree or a victim of just such a list, I love the distilled vision these lists provide and the accompanying, heaping servings of controversy served alongside.
The S. Pellegrino "World's 50 Best Restaurants" list is compiled by "The 50 Best Restaurant Academy" a select group of the best chefs, restaurateurs, food critics and gourmands in the world. It is supposed to be ultra highbrow and I bristle at all the comments about it being elitist. Well of course it is, it MUST be! This is not the "50 Best Middle of the Road Joints that We Can All Afford" list. Come on now. I know how crazy some of the prices seem, but it is so worth saving, skipping several ho-hum meals you could easily make at home to see what can, and is being done with food. It is incredible to experience simple ingredients and admittedly, many not so simple ingredients becoming so transcendent in the hands of such masters. http://www.theworlds50best.com/awards/1-50-winners
Shake up #1: The toppling of Spain's legendary El Bulli from a four year domination of this world's best list. Chef Ferran Adria's outpost and the birthplace of molecular gastronomy ducked to second place under Denmark's Noma led by Chef Rene Redzepi. The United States lead the list with the most top 50's with 8 lead by Chicago's own Grant Achatz another molecular wizard at #7. You really must check out his gorgeous web site. He designs his own serving wear for his unbelievable creations: releasing scents, textures and true magic with each dish. www.alinea-restaurant.com
Shake up #2: The annual drama over the lack of representation from beyond the Asia, except for Les Creations de Narisawa from Japan. Gnashing of teeth, rending of garments...
My personal Shake up: My king, Chef Thomas Keller fell a bit. Now he is on there TWICE, unlike any others, but my beloved French Laundry here in Yountville, CA slipped a bit, but Per Se in NYC is strong at #10. To be on the list twice, that is truly a feat of incredible passion and focus. Never have I been more affected by a meal, ever, than my Laundry experience. To quote the rambunctious, magnificent Chef Anthony Bourdian as he was eating his remarkable meal at the Laundry, laughing with joy and wonderment , "this is like driving a Lamborghini, naked, in silk underpants. That is how over the top this is".Over the top indeed.
Here I am with Chef Keller, one of life's more delicious moments.
